The second layer of chines and gunwales and the smaller stringers have been installed. All of these are attached with bronze screws and thickened epoxy.
The boat may look like this for awhile. Next I have to shape the frame so that the pieces of plywood planking will fit up nicely. But before the planking, I'm going to make the centercase (or centerplate trunk) and maybe install it. And I have to sand all the unwanted epoxy lumps off.
Monday, November 23, 2009
Saturday, November 21, 2009
Garage Sealed and Heated
The garage has been getting too cold to epoxy. The temperature needs to be at least 55F for a few days at a time for my epoxy to set properly. So I either have to wait until spring or come up with a way to heat the garage. I was thinking about buying a heater and garage door insulation, but all of that costs a lot of money. I found a way to satisfactorily heat the garage without spending any money at all.
The most important thing was to stop all the cold air from coming in. Stopping all the drafts must be done before insulation is added. I temporarily decommissioned my garage door and covered it with a large plastic sheet and 2x4s that I had laying around, being careful to seal it as best as possible around the edges and bottom. I patched up some holes in the drywall and taped the cracks around the attic hatches. By leaving the door to the house open, the garage becomes part of the heated space of the house. I didn't need to install a duct feeding the garage, because the furnace naturally sucks warm air from the house into the garage when its running. It's not the most efficient or safe setup ... but it's definitely the most cost effective solution for one or two winter seasons. It's not efficient because the garage space isn't completely insulated and also the furnace is now sucking warm air out of the house and releasing it out the roof vent. Nonetheless, I now have a heated garage and only marginally more expensive heating bills.
The garage is at a cozy 62F when its in the 40's outside and 68F inside the house. It could be warmer if I added insulation but that costs money. The coldest surface inside the garage is probably the concrete floor ... and I'm never going to try to insulate that.
One problem is that my garage isn't long enough to plane long pieces of lumber with the garage door closed ... so I stick the ends of the lumber through the open living room door to feed them into the planer! (I have a very understanding wife ... as long as I have a curtain up to keep the sawdust out of the house).
The garage door probably won't be opened until the flipping.
The most important thing was to stop all the cold air from coming in. Stopping all the drafts must be done before insulation is added. I temporarily decommissioned my garage door and covered it with a large plastic sheet and 2x4s that I had laying around, being careful to seal it as best as possible around the edges and bottom. I patched up some holes in the drywall and taped the cracks around the attic hatches. By leaving the door to the house open, the garage becomes part of the heated space of the house. I didn't need to install a duct feeding the garage, because the furnace naturally sucks warm air from the house into the garage when its running. It's not the most efficient or safe setup ... but it's definitely the most cost effective solution for one or two winter seasons. It's not efficient because the garage space isn't completely insulated and also the furnace is now sucking warm air out of the house and releasing it out the roof vent. Nonetheless, I now have a heated garage and only marginally more expensive heating bills.
The garage is at a cozy 62F when its in the 40's outside and 68F inside the house. It could be warmer if I added insulation but that costs money. The coldest surface inside the garage is probably the concrete floor ... and I'm never going to try to insulate that.
One problem is that my garage isn't long enough to plane long pieces of lumber with the garage door closed ... so I stick the ends of the lumber through the open living room door to feed them into the planer! (I have a very understanding wife ... as long as I have a curtain up to keep the sawdust out of the house).
The garage door probably won't be opened until the flipping.
Sunday, November 1, 2009
Chines being installed
The first layer of the chines and gunwales has been installed. When I was installing them, none broke and only one sprung back and hit me in the head! Success. I started by cutting a bevel in the front to fit up to the stem. I attached each of them to the stem, then glued and screwed to the frames. A pretty simple process as long as the pieces of wood don't break.
I decided not to screw them into the foremost frame (frame #1), because I was worried that the screw hole could cause the piece to crack in this high stress area. This worked fine, except the force of the bent gunwale pushed this frame aft slightly. Some temporary wedges and clamps are used to hold everything in position until the glue sets.
I decided not to screw them into the foremost frame (frame #1), because I was worried that the screw hole could cause the piece to crack in this high stress area. This worked fine, except the force of the bent gunwale pushed this frame aft slightly. Some temporary wedges and clamps are used to hold everything in position until the glue sets.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)