Foredeck Beams

I'm starting the long process of framing the interior of the boat.

The curved foredeck beams have been cutout and installed. The pattern for each is given in the plans. The plans didn't say how to attach them exactly, so I just glued and screwed them to the side of the frames and the inside of the gunwale. I made a small notch in the gunwale for the deck beams in between the frames to make it easier to screw on. Also, a strip of 3/8"x3" plywood called a king plank is checked into the top center of the foredeck beams.



Then I carefully trimmed the gunwale shear line to align with the frames and deck beams. (I used a circular saw which is actually an accurate trimming tool that's faster than a hand plane if you have to cut off a lot of material.) The plywood deck will be attached to the frames and the gunwale. They all have to align with no gaps.

Two carlines are also installed aft of the foredeck beams. These match the curve of the gunwales, but are angled inboard, as you can see in the pics below. They are angled this way because the cabin sides are going to be secured to the side of these carlines and the cabin sides are angled.



Here's a good pic of the connection of the cabin beam, gunwale and carline. You can see the cabin beam slightly checked into the gunwale (not too much so to not weaken the gunwale). Some people prefer not to check into the gunwale at all, but I found it easier to assemble this way. Also you can see a funny shaped spacer block that the carline is secured to.



Bending these carlines into position was unexpectedly very difficult. It required a compound bend in two directions. After breaking the first one, I cut out a piece that was slightly curved downward (about 1/2") in the middle, eliminating the need for a compound bend. This doesn't sound like much of a difference, but it significantly decreased the force required to bend the carline into position.


On an unrelated topic, I made a new scarfing jig. If you recall from almost a year ago, I made a scarfing jig to use with a belt sander (which is almost comical to think about now). Here is the new one that works with my table saw. It just keeps the piece being cut at a 12:1 angle. It couldn't be simpler really. I've been using it instead of the belt sander jig and I thought I would show it on the blog just to be thorough. I'm going to need it again soon to make the shear capping pieces.

Jib Sail Finished

I finished the jib sail. Here is a pic of it being folded up for storage. Notice all the jib snaps installed and the leather sewn on the corners. (Never mind the dog grazing on sewing scraps.)



I also made three duffel bags for the three sails following purchased plans. The duffel bags are made of nylon and pretty easy to sew. Making all three of them took me about 5 hours. The piece of fabric is folded in half and sewn together, then the bottom is cleverly folded to make a square and sewn down. The bag is then just turned right side out. There is also a draw string pocket along the top. The jib sail is in one of the bags in the pic, but the other two are empty waiting for me to make the other two sails.



But the "sail loft" is now cleaned up and mothballed for now. I just wanted to make sure that the sailmaking wasn't going to cause me any problems and it isn't. I'm going to get back to working on the hull now.



I apologize if the sail assembly portion of my blog isn't very detailed. If you want to learn more about the sail kit assembly, I figure you can just go to the sail maker's website and watch streaming videos. I just want to share my personal experiences like:
- yes, I can sew sails with a crappy home sewing machine.
- making a sail pattern before sail assembly for future use.
- details about my specific sails, etc.

Working jib sail almost complete

I almost finished sewing the working jib sail.

My first stitches are ugly ... but they are slowly getting better. I spent about 4 hours learning how to use the sewing machine and adjusting it using some scrap fabric. After a lot of "bird nests", I got it under control. But then when I started sewing the sails, I had a whole new set of problems. The hardest part is feeding the large pieces of fabric through the machine and keeping the stitch straight and evenly spaced. Having an uneven stitch just looks a little funky and doesn't seem to affect the seam's strength too much, so I'm not too worried about it. (Luckily the sail maker sold me white thread that matches the white fabric, so sewing mistakes are not too conspicuous).

The sailmaker sold me a bunch of double-sided basting tape. Sewing the sails would be impossible without this stuff. Even the pros use it. I basically just tape everything together before sewing and then nothing moves when it goes through the sewing machine. The tape just stays hidden in the seam permanently after sewing.

My cheap little machine sews through very many layers of material surprisingly well. At one corner of the sail, I sewed through 8 layers of 4.4oz sail cloth and two layers of thick webbing.

So here's a little description of how this sail is constructed. The horizontal sail panels are sewn together with a 5/8" overlap seam with two rows of zig-zag stitches. The corners are reinforced with 4 layers of additional fabric patches. Here is a couple of pics after the panels and corner patches were sewn together, but before the edges and corner hardware are done.




At each corner there is an attachment point for halyards and sheets (ropes). One corner has a D-ring. The D-ring is attached to the sail with multiple pieces of webbing that are sewed onto the corner patches. The other two corners have wire thimbles. The thimbles are attached to a wire that sewn into the luff edge of the sail (kinda like pipping on upholstery). Each of these attachment points is heavily reinforced with thick twine that is hand sewn. The thimbles are further reinforced by a brass ring that's sewn into the sail next to it, then twine secures them together.

All the hand sewing is done with very heavy sailmaker twine. The hand sewing was pretty easy since I used an awl to pre-poke the holes and a coin to push the needle through. The corners are dressed with little pieces of leather, which is just there to prevent chafing. Here's some pics of the wire thimbles and wire sewn into the sail. (The leather is partially sewn on at the moment.)




Bronze jib snaps are attached behind the steel wire all along the luff edge to attach the sail to the fore-stay wire on the boat. You can see one of these snaps installed in one of the pics above. Without this wire in the sail, the grommets that the jib snaps attach to would just rip out of edge of the sail.

The other edges (the foot and leech) are just double-hemmed.

So I just have to finish stitching on the leather patches and then I'll have a perfectly functional jib sail (with some comically ugly stitches in a few spots ... but oh well).

Sail loft getting ready

Here is a glimpse of the sail loft. A nice little yellow spare room.


I purchased three sail kits (main, jib and storm jib) from a sail maker. These kits have all the hardware and materials (fabric, thread, twine, rope, wire ... everything I need) and instructions to assemble them. I just need to sew the sails together (mostly machine sewing but some hand sewing at the corners) and attach the hardware. The sail fabric is already cut out. For those of you not familiar with sail design, the sail maker designed the sail panels with curved edges so that when they are sewn together they will form an airfoil shape. (Not something I can learn to design without sail design software.)

I'm going to try to sew tough sail fabric with a cheap little Singer sewing machine from Target. I'll let you know how it goes. The sail fabric is called Dacron, a surprisingly tightly stitched, plastic-like polyester fabric (kinda like Nylon, only much more stiff). I have to learn how to use the machine before I can sew the sails. The stitches of my first sail will probably look bad, but hopefully I'll get a hang of it. I'm going to make one sail (the jib) just to make sure that I can do it, then get back to building the boat. After the boat is closer to completion, I'll make the other two sails.

But first, I made a full-size pattern of the sails for the day when I want to make replacement sails. (Talk about thinking ahead, right?) The sail maker was kind enough to give me a computer print-out of the X,Y coordinates that he used to cut the sail panels out with a large automated plotter. I typed these coordinates into AutoCAD to draw the panels exactly to the correct shape. Then I just printed them out superimposed on each other on 30in x 112in paper. Here is a pic of the sail pattern with one of the sail panels lying on top of it to make sure that it matches. It matches perfectly of course.


Here are the coordinates of that sail panel and the resulting CAD drawing. Confused? If so, don't feel bad, it took me awhile to figure out what these coordinates meant.


I figure I paid the design fee so the design is mine. When I make some replacement sails in like 10 years, I'll just have to buy the materials.

You can't call me a sail maker since I'm clueless about sail design, but I guess you can call me a "sail assembler", kinda like the Chinese workers that most sail lofts outsource to nowadays.

Bow Eye and Trailer Adjustment

I installed the bow eye into the stem of the boat. The bow eye is just a long stainless u-bolt that the trailer winch attaches to. I had to chisel out some of the stem because the u-bolt wasn't long enough (this is a common practice I hear). On the back side of the u-bolt there is a steel backing plate to prevent the stem from getting crushed when the nuts are tightened. I also installed a metal clip where a pulley will be attached that rotates (or raises and lowers) the centerplate. I fabricated the metal clip out of some stainless steel plate using an angle grinder.



The boat saw a brief glimpse of daylight as I opened the garage door to winch it up on the trailer. Ooo ... here is a glimpse of the future towing rig. I know I know, it's a beast.




Back in the garage she goes. The garage door is sealed up with plastic again since its still pretty cold outside.



After a few hours of adjusting the roller and bunk heights, the boat is now firmly seated on the trailer. I moved the bow stop (and thus the boat) aft a foot or so to reduce the tongue weight. The boat and trailer will weigh about 1000lbs and I'm shooting for a tongue weight of about 50-70 lbs. After I moved the boat aft, the tilting function of the trailer actually wants to tilt the boat back even when the boat is all the way forward against the bow stop. I thought this would be a problem, but its actually not, because the winch pulls the boat forward and down, which automatically levels the trailer when I'm winching it up onto the trailer. Also, the tilt joint is locked in place with a pin except when launching the boat.



There was a scary moment when I tried to board her from the rear (gigidy) and the whole trailer and boat violently tipped back. After that, I added jack stands under the rear of the trailer frame. The boat is now stable enough for me to climb around in.

Boat Flipping Party

Well, traditionally builders have a party of people to come over to flip their boat. But my boat is so small, that I only needed a few people. And I tried to video the whole process, but the camera didn't record. Oh well, here are some pics of the boat after it was flipped.





I laid down a bunch of old blankets and plastic sheet on one side of the boat. I put eye bolts high on the wall on the other side. Ropes were tied to the boat and through the eye bolts. Two people (Fransisco and I) lifted to roll the boat as two other people (Valerie and Kristy) held on to the ropes to keep the boat from rolling too fast. Without the ropes, I think the boat would have been difficult to control after a certain angle.

The boat is securely screwed to the strong-back frame, so it all rolled over together. Most of the lumber in the boat is temporary scrap wood and will be removed when necessary. There's lots of glue drips to scrape off, but overall the interior of the hull looks pretty good.

Everything went according to plan and the boat is now lying on it's keel. Next I'm going to install the bow eye and then winch it up on the trailer.

Paint Hull

The hull got a rough sanding so that the paint will adhere. I didn't bother to fill in ALL the little blemishes and get her perfect. After all, I'm building a boat to go in the water, not a museum.



Two thin coats of primer are then applied with a roller. The paint is a high quality 100% acrylic latex primer.



Then two coats of top coat are applied. The paint is a high quality industrial DTM 100% acrylic latex semigloss. DTM stands for Direct To Metal, which basically means that the paint adheres well to almost any prepared surface, not just metal. Latex paint is not chosen to be cheap, (since good latex is actually pretty expensive). I feel like latex paint is the best choice for a trailer boat when considering durability, looks, expense, ease of application, and ease of reapplication. (And its not as much as a health or environmental hazard compared to "marine" paints). After doing a little research, I learned that quite a few people paint their boat with latex and results are generally positive.



Next a few coats of trim color.


And then the aluminum strips (fabricated earlier) are installed with stainless 1" wood screws and polysulfide caulk (nasty gooey stuff meant for under the waterline). I made a mess with the caulk and had to touch up the trim paint after.





The shiny paint reveals a lot of the little imperfections in the hull that I didn't notice before, but the wife is still impressed with how it looks and that's what counts.

That's it for the underside of the boat. Now I need to get some goons over here to flip 'er over.

Skeg and capping pieces glued

Wow, no blog post for a whole month? Sorry about that. Let me catch you up.

It took a little longer than expected, but I've glued the skeg and capping pieces in place. After much deliberation, I decided to glue all these pieces in place instead of just screws and sealant. The glue will make them much stronger and sealed, though I won't be able to remove them as easily. After all the pieces were glued on the boat, I sanded the top flat and rounded the edges.




The bolts were used as clamps while gluing the skeg, then the bolts were removed after the glue hardened. (The bolts are easily removable if they are temporarily wrapped in clear packing tape). The inside of the bolt holes were then coated with epoxy (which helps keep the wood from getting "sick" from the metal). The bolts will be reinstalled later with sealant. (So the bolts will be removable for inspection or replacement.)



The stem capping is two layers of 1/2" thick oak that must bend about 90 degrees.

I broke the first piece trying to bend it into position. Oak generally bends well, but this is a very tight bend and my pieces are very dry (probably kiln dried). So I made a wood torturing jig in the shape of the front of the boat.



It's just a piece of plywood with carefully shaped blocks screwed to it. I slowly poured a gallon of boiling water over the oak pieces as I bent and clamped them onto the jig. The heat from the boiling water relaxes the fibers of the wood and prevents it from breaking. A metal strip covers the outside of the wood piece so that the clamping force is more distributed. After the pieces were bent onto the jig, I poured another gallon of hot water on them, then let them dry for a week and removed them from the jig. (I didn't take pics of this process, sorry). They sprung back a little when I removed them, but they were easily installed on the front of the boat without breaking. (This boiling water technique is similar to steam bending, but I didn't want to make a steam box since I only needed to bend these two pieces. Steam bending probably works slightly better and the wood doesn't take as long to dry).

I drilled two 1" drain holes in the bottom of the transom for draining the bilge when the boat is out of the water. These holes are lined with a brass tube permanently glued in. They will be corked with drain plugs when the boat is sailing, since the boat would flood otherwise.



I also drilled some holes through the stem for a bow eye (in which to hook the trailer winch). This was scary, because I couldn't remember if there were any screws in the way. Luckily I didn't hit any. These holes are also coated with epoxy and the bow eye will also be installed with sealant.



Metal strips were made out of aluminum flat bar. I'm hoping they will add some extra protection for the bottom of the boat. We'll see if they do any good. Brass half-oval strips are commonly used, but I couldn't find that for a decent price. Aluminum should work just as well on a trailer boat, though it may not be quite as pretty. I used an angle grinder to cut them to length and round the edges a little. A belt sander with fine paper polished them up nicely. They were test fit on the hull (which is the cause of all the small screw holes in the previous pics), but then removed and will later be attached to the skeg and capping pieces using sealant and countersunk stainless screws.



The hull is shiny because I coated it with another thin coat of epoxy. The next step is to give the hull a final sanding. The final coat of epoxy has some ripples in it and I need to rough up the epoxy anyway, since paint won't stick to this super shiny, slick surface.

Then I'm going to paint the hull! I'm currently painting a scrap of plywood to test the adhesion of the epoxy, primer and topcoat that I'm using. I'll let it dry and then see if there are any adhesion problems.

The boat flipping will be two weekends from now hopefully. (But there is still a lot of work to be done after that.)